Around sunset on September 18, 1863,
the men of Archibald Gracie’s Brigade crossed Chickamauga Creek at a place
known as Dalton’s Ford. The brigade was part of the Confederate Army of
Tennessee and crossing the Creek basically put the brigade in position to
become involved in the costly battle of Chickamauga.
One hundred fifty years, five months
and three weeks later, your loyal blogger put his boots in the same mud as
Gracie’s men did all those years ago.
Dalton's Ford, looking to the south. Gracie's Brigade crossed Chickamauga Creek from the far side toward the side where the photographer stood. |
This was a humbling experience, a
literal step into history. Maybe a step into the muck of history. Or something
like that.
It took lots of direction from the
patient park Rangers at the Chickamauga National Military Park Visitors Center,
a fancy map and a wonderful spring day to make the trek pay off, but the Ford
was waiting when yours truly showed up.
Muddy boots! |
The sand in the foreground of this
image at the Ford is all that remains of the crossing and even this much is
more difficult to see when the Creek’s water level is higher. Still, it is
there to be seen on the southern end of the Park’s portion of the battlefield.
After stomping around the area near
the Ford, it was time to drive the rental car to Horseshoe Ridge. It has been
two years since my last visit to the Ridge but the time between visits has
allowed for study of the fighting. James Ogden, the Park’s historian, has been
kind enough to help me understand a great deal of this very complicated area of
fighting. Today I looked at the Ridge with a better understanding than ever
before.
For your loyal blogger, today was
about fitting a little bit of book knowledge with the pure facts of the
topography. New questions popped up, which always happens to me here. But brief
moments of understanding also happened and those moments were thrilling.
This image shows the area between Hills 1 and 2 on Horseshoe Ridge. See how the ground changes in both directions |
Regular readers of this blog know I
begin each trip to a battlefield with detailed plans for each day and I typically
blow those plans off as soon as I find something new and interesting.
Today’s visit was disciplined. There
was no plan shredding, just a careful following of the plan as outlined. I
noted things I want to explore, but I left them unseen for the time being. Talk
about making a sacrifice for the greater good, this was it.
Tomorrow will be more of the same,
although the goals are very different and will probably be harder to
accomplish. Still, no one promised me a rose garden. Even if they did, I don’t
like roses anyway.
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